After several weeks at Josh and Kendehl's, we left to travel eastwards for about 1900Km as far as the WA-NT border, the intention being to get there quickly and then slowly make our way back to Karratha after the new baby was born, to be close enough in case of problems. About a week later, we arrived at Lake Argyle.
Lake Argyle has been formed by the damming of the Ord River; it's reported to be up to 16 times the size in water storage than Sydney Harbour, (a de-facto comparison of water storage in Australia). The East Kimberley region and around the lake is so spectacular with rugged ranges and vast areas of land tracts home to some of the largest cattle stations in Australia. The waters of the lake irrigate the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, which is currently undergoing massive expansion. The waters of the lake are barely touched by the usage for irrigation and are the envy of many in the drier southern states.
Lake Argyle Resort is a great place to spend a few weeks, very restful. There were magnificent sunsets, (and sunrise if you get up early enough) for spectacular colour variations, a joy for camera enthusiasts. Highlights for us were the day cruise of the lake, the cruise taking in about half of the 54k long lake. Saw fresh water crocodiles, searched for Zebra Rock on a remote island and sailed along the escarpment under a glorious sunset. A morning cruise was taken down the Ord River Valley to enjoy spectacular gorge scenery and hear of the history of the original station owners and the origins of the scheme. The resort pool of icy-cold water proved to be a popular spot each afternoon.
Whilst at the Lake, we drove across the NT border for a day trip to Keep River National Park, to see permanent water holes, bee-hive rock formations and bird life. A friendly galah came to say hello by appearing out of nowhere to land on my shoulder, much unexpected.
Kununurra
After the Lake Argyle, we came back to Kununurra to do more sight-seeing, Zebra Rock Factory one day. More of the Ord River and Lake Kununurra Irrigation Scheme; we saw plantations of rape seed, legumes, Sandalwood, Sorghum, Paw-Paw and Chia-seed. A major attraction of the irrigation scheme is nearby, "The Hoochery", the only private rum distillery in Australia. A few dollars allows one to sample different blends of Rum and they do great meals. I had to produce a driver's licence to prove our eligibility to purchase as a condition of their liquor licence.
The major tourism attractions of the region have to be the many air-flights around the Lake and surrounds. We booked onto a day trip by fixed wing aircraft down the full length of the Lake Argyle; around the Bungle-Bungle Range of Purnululu National Park and landing for a tour of the Argyle Diamond Mine. Being a hot day, turbulence spoiled the flight for Vicki, but by air being the best way to truly see the size of Lake Argyle, the National Park gorges and bee-hive rock formations that the Bungle-Bungles are famous for. The landing at the (again) world famous Argyle Diamond Mine gave Vicki some respite; we had lunch and a ground tour of the mine. We got to see how and where the rare pink diamond is found, saw displays of rare jewels and yes, they did give us a free sample each, (about the size of the full stop but one just the same).
We drove a day trip to Wyndham where we visited the Five River Lookout, climbed the 144 steps down to "The Grotto" along the way and a side trip to Parry Creek Farm.
Fitzroy Crossing Returning West from Kununurra, via Halls Creek and an overnight stop at the Mary River Pool, we next camped at Fitzroy Crossing, a small town on the Fitzroy River. Here we encountered a very close bush fire when a burn-off across the highway got out of control, (as most of them seem to do!). From here we visited the Geikie Gorge National Park and did a 2-3 hour walk along the river to view scenery, bird life and the odd signs of resident crocodiles. It was a hot day and by the time we got back, very exhausted.
Derby Spent several days camping in Derby, (same as my place of birth in the UK), and did the touristy things there; walking around the old wharf, observed the nine metre tides and the ancient Boab Trees, One such tree reputed to have been used as a prison in the old days.
From Derby, we had a day trip to the famed Gibb River Road and onto Windjana National Park and to Tunnel Creek National Park. The former is a deep and ancient gorge along the Lennard River. Basking fresh-water crocodiles and Barramundi in the clear deep pools, (fishing not allowed), ancient escarpments that are testimony to pre-historic upheavals. Tunnel Creek is where the river has carved a passage through ancient rocks forming a kilometre long cave under the Range. The cave is wonderfully cool after the heat of the day, is home to bats, freshwater crocs and surprisingly, butterflies. This visit involved wading by torch-light and much spirited banter among our group who searched the darkness for hidden snags and the hiding place of at least five "freshies".
Broome After Derby, next stop Broome, world famous tourist spot where thousands of back-packers from all over come to see the legendry Cable Beach, camel rides at sunset and the historical Broome China Town and to learn about the origins of the south-seas pearling industry. Broome claims to be founded on "buttons" as it developed as the world supplier of pearl shell for buttons, knife handles and the European and American demand for shell based jewellery. When plastic replaced pearl shell, the pearlers learnt to seed the animal and so developed an industry that still today supplies some of the best and most expensive pearls.
We took day trip drives to Cape Leveque, Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and another to James Price Point. The latter currently the site of the proposed development by Woodside as a major gas processing plant. Along magnificent wilderness coast line, pristine blue waters, not surprisingly, now the site of anti-mining and development protester's camp. Having visited there, one can only wonder when preservation will take priority over relatively short term profits.
The famous old Broome wooden jetty has long gone, now replaced by a more secure construction to a deep water wharf. Walking there at sunset over several nights, seeing the ships coming and going that were all associated with the mining industry, off shore gas drilling and gas pipelines. At the end of the walk-way, we saw lads fishing for giant trevally; their baits attracting a huge spotted cod (or groper?) that lived among the pylons and it was quite entertaining to watch this animal of such large proportions, mouth like the proverbial dustbin.
On this visit, the tides were not favourable for walks out to the WW-11 Catalina air-craft wrecks or to see "Stairway to the Moon"; luckily we did all of that last visit but we did enjoy the magnificent views over the bay, lovely blue water and clear late winter skies.
80-Mile Beach A favourite place for many to spend the winter, 80-Mile Beach Caravan Park was still busy even this late in the season. No sign of the cyclone damage that occurred earlier this year. The usual activities of looking for shells after the high tide; fishing for the short duration of the high, and just walking or driving the many miles of beach, make for quite a restful place. Evening sunset viewing with a glass of something in the hand is de-rigueur for the regulars and visitors alike. As it was at the end of the season, we observed several caravanners packing up and saying their farewells with a cheery "...see you next year..." They book the same site year after year.
Fishing was not very productive and the highly prized conch shells were not to be found but we had a good week anyway.
After here, via Port Hedland and then back to Karratha where the new baby Nikita June Heinze-Hann awaits her nanna. Arthur of course was also keen to see us again and to introduce his new baby sister.
Wet Season, North West Western Australia
It is important for our overseas followers to understand the seasons in the North of Australia. Having crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, one is subject to tropical seasons not encountered further south. We chose like many to visit the North in winter, the weather being cooler and drier for the winter months. Clear blue skies, we haven't seen rain for months. However, all changes from November. The wet season arrives. Many of the places we have visited would probably be inaccessible for us and the huge river systems of the north-west, dry in winter, run in flood after monsoon rains. Tropical cyclones are regular across the "top-end", cyclone warning signs that we saw as "all clear" give way to levels of alertness if and when cyclones are formed. Karratha, Broome Port Hedland, all go into tie-down mode in the severest level of immanency. This year they are predicting a possible five cyclones after the longer dry and higher than average temperatures of late. We can't be there in cyclone season.
The northern aborigines have many mythical tales and traditions of the seasons. They recognise several more seasons than the simple "wet" or "dry" of the white settlers, their traditional seasons include changes in food gathering, hunting traditions and for where they would migrate to escape the flood plains of the "wet". The summer rains refreshing the country for the next "dry" season and the flood of a different kind, tourists in campers and caravans.
Lake Argyle has been formed by the damming of the Ord River; it's reported to be up to 16 times the size in water storage than Sydney Harbour, (a de-facto comparison of water storage in Australia). The East Kimberley region and around the lake is so spectacular with rugged ranges and vast areas of land tracts home to some of the largest cattle stations in Australia. The waters of the lake irrigate the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, which is currently undergoing massive expansion. The waters of the lake are barely touched by the usage for irrigation and are the envy of many in the drier southern states.
Lake Argyle Resort is a great place to spend a few weeks, very restful. There were magnificent sunsets, (and sunrise if you get up early enough) for spectacular colour variations, a joy for camera enthusiasts. Highlights for us were the day cruise of the lake, the cruise taking in about half of the 54k long lake. Saw fresh water crocodiles, searched for Zebra Rock on a remote island and sailed along the escarpment under a glorious sunset. A morning cruise was taken down the Ord River Valley to enjoy spectacular gorge scenery and hear of the history of the original station owners and the origins of the scheme. The resort pool of icy-cold water proved to be a popular spot each afternoon.
Whilst at the Lake, we drove across the NT border for a day trip to Keep River National Park, to see permanent water holes, bee-hive rock formations and bird life. A friendly galah came to say hello by appearing out of nowhere to land on my shoulder, much unexpected.
Kununurra
After the Lake Argyle, we came back to Kununurra to do more sight-seeing, Zebra Rock Factory one day. More of the Ord River and Lake Kununurra Irrigation Scheme; we saw plantations of rape seed, legumes, Sandalwood, Sorghum, Paw-Paw and Chia-seed. A major attraction of the irrigation scheme is nearby, "The Hoochery", the only private rum distillery in Australia. A few dollars allows one to sample different blends of Rum and they do great meals. I had to produce a driver's licence to prove our eligibility to purchase as a condition of their liquor licence.
The major tourism attractions of the region have to be the many air-flights around the Lake and surrounds. We booked onto a day trip by fixed wing aircraft down the full length of the Lake Argyle; around the Bungle-Bungle Range of Purnululu National Park and landing for a tour of the Argyle Diamond Mine. Being a hot day, turbulence spoiled the flight for Vicki, but by air being the best way to truly see the size of Lake Argyle, the National Park gorges and bee-hive rock formations that the Bungle-Bungles are famous for. The landing at the (again) world famous Argyle Diamond Mine gave Vicki some respite; we had lunch and a ground tour of the mine. We got to see how and where the rare pink diamond is found, saw displays of rare jewels and yes, they did give us a free sample each, (about the size of the full stop but one just the same).
We drove a day trip to Wyndham where we visited the Five River Lookout, climbed the 144 steps down to "The Grotto" along the way and a side trip to Parry Creek Farm.
Fitzroy Crossing Returning West from Kununurra, via Halls Creek and an overnight stop at the Mary River Pool, we next camped at Fitzroy Crossing, a small town on the Fitzroy River. Here we encountered a very close bush fire when a burn-off across the highway got out of control, (as most of them seem to do!). From here we visited the Geikie Gorge National Park and did a 2-3 hour walk along the river to view scenery, bird life and the odd signs of resident crocodiles. It was a hot day and by the time we got back, very exhausted.
Derby Spent several days camping in Derby, (same as my place of birth in the UK), and did the touristy things there; walking around the old wharf, observed the nine metre tides and the ancient Boab Trees, One such tree reputed to have been used as a prison in the old days.
From Derby, we had a day trip to the famed Gibb River Road and onto Windjana National Park and to Tunnel Creek National Park. The former is a deep and ancient gorge along the Lennard River. Basking fresh-water crocodiles and Barramundi in the clear deep pools, (fishing not allowed), ancient escarpments that are testimony to pre-historic upheavals. Tunnel Creek is where the river has carved a passage through ancient rocks forming a kilometre long cave under the Range. The cave is wonderfully cool after the heat of the day, is home to bats, freshwater crocs and surprisingly, butterflies. This visit involved wading by torch-light and much spirited banter among our group who searched the darkness for hidden snags and the hiding place of at least five "freshies".
Broome After Derby, next stop Broome, world famous tourist spot where thousands of back-packers from all over come to see the legendry Cable Beach, camel rides at sunset and the historical Broome China Town and to learn about the origins of the south-seas pearling industry. Broome claims to be founded on "buttons" as it developed as the world supplier of pearl shell for buttons, knife handles and the European and American demand for shell based jewellery. When plastic replaced pearl shell, the pearlers learnt to seed the animal and so developed an industry that still today supplies some of the best and most expensive pearls.
We took day trip drives to Cape Leveque, Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and another to James Price Point. The latter currently the site of the proposed development by Woodside as a major gas processing plant. Along magnificent wilderness coast line, pristine blue waters, not surprisingly, now the site of anti-mining and development protester's camp. Having visited there, one can only wonder when preservation will take priority over relatively short term profits.
The famous old Broome wooden jetty has long gone, now replaced by a more secure construction to a deep water wharf. Walking there at sunset over several nights, seeing the ships coming and going that were all associated with the mining industry, off shore gas drilling and gas pipelines. At the end of the walk-way, we saw lads fishing for giant trevally; their baits attracting a huge spotted cod (or groper?) that lived among the pylons and it was quite entertaining to watch this animal of such large proportions, mouth like the proverbial dustbin.
On this visit, the tides were not favourable for walks out to the WW-11 Catalina air-craft wrecks or to see "Stairway to the Moon"; luckily we did all of that last visit but we did enjoy the magnificent views over the bay, lovely blue water and clear late winter skies.
80-Mile Beach A favourite place for many to spend the winter, 80-Mile Beach Caravan Park was still busy even this late in the season. No sign of the cyclone damage that occurred earlier this year. The usual activities of looking for shells after the high tide; fishing for the short duration of the high, and just walking or driving the many miles of beach, make for quite a restful place. Evening sunset viewing with a glass of something in the hand is de-rigueur for the regulars and visitors alike. As it was at the end of the season, we observed several caravanners packing up and saying their farewells with a cheery "...see you next year..." They book the same site year after year.
Fishing was not very productive and the highly prized conch shells were not to be found but we had a good week anyway.
After here, via Port Hedland and then back to Karratha where the new baby Nikita June Heinze-Hann awaits her nanna. Arthur of course was also keen to see us again and to introduce his new baby sister.
Wet Season, North West Western Australia
It is important for our overseas followers to understand the seasons in the North of Australia. Having crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, one is subject to tropical seasons not encountered further south. We chose like many to visit the North in winter, the weather being cooler and drier for the winter months. Clear blue skies, we haven't seen rain for months. However, all changes from November. The wet season arrives. Many of the places we have visited would probably be inaccessible for us and the huge river systems of the north-west, dry in winter, run in flood after monsoon rains. Tropical cyclones are regular across the "top-end", cyclone warning signs that we saw as "all clear" give way to levels of alertness if and when cyclones are formed. Karratha, Broome Port Hedland, all go into tie-down mode in the severest level of immanency. This year they are predicting a possible five cyclones after the longer dry and higher than average temperatures of late. We can't be there in cyclone season.
The northern aborigines have many mythical tales and traditions of the seasons. They recognise several more seasons than the simple "wet" or "dry" of the white settlers, their traditional seasons include changes in food gathering, hunting traditions and for where they would migrate to escape the flood plains of the "wet". The summer rains refreshing the country for the next "dry" season and the flood of a different kind, tourists in campers and caravans.
Click on the link below to view recent photos.
https://picasaweb.google.com/108879761974384702036/KarrathaToLakeArgyle?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN6Vw9vAgorIXQ&feat=directlink
